The Bare Necessities of Life Will Come to You

The University of Iceland's amazing truck.

The moment the super truck pulled up, I knew our week in the mountains was going to be an extraordinary adventure. The ride out to Hengill was a new experience, to say the least. Once we veered off the main road, we were faced with a huge snowdrift that seemed almost impassable; but, we managed to get through it.   The trip was especially challenging since it had just snowed and the conditions prevented the snow from solidifying.  Sveinbjörn Steinþórsson informed us that the snow was like “powdered sugar” in the sense that it was difficult for the tires to get traction on such a soft and grainy surface.  Due to this, we had to dig the truck out a few times.  To avoid further shoveling, we then took an amazing detour up the side of the mountain, which allowed us to see a completely new part of Hengill.

            Upon arrival to our new home away from home, we quickly realized that we were not in the city anymore. This cabin had no electricity or running water. Thankfully, it did have a fireplace and a diesel heater. We spent the rest of our first day acclimating to our new environment and getting our gear organized. I became well aware of the luxuries we are accustomed to at home when I had to put my boots on and walked 50 yards just to go to the bathroom or boiled snow on a propane powered stove just to make oatmeal - all with my heavy mittens on!  It truly hit me when we had to cut wood by hand for firewood just to stay warm - if we didn't keep cutting wood when the pile got low,no matter the hour, we would have no warmth.  Life became about necessity and not accessory, but it was the greatest feeling in the world.

Nostoc pruniforme,
 found in stream 9 under 5 feet of snow!

            The first full day started by crawling out of our sleeping bags pretending that it wasn’t as cold as we thought as we began to boil water for our breakfast. We then headed off on our first hike to our field site. It was amazing to see the landscape that I had worked in for months over the summer so completely changed by the snow. It took a while to become adjusted to the new landscape. This daily hike took about 45 minutes and consisted of hill climbing and high stepping- an excellent workout, I can assure you. Due to the “powdered sugar” effect, every step resulted in a deep plunge into the fresh snow or, sometimes, breaking through into a deep hole.  It was quite an adventure and mystery as to which we would get with each step.  This day consisted of finding the different streams we were going to be working in over the coming week. We found the warm streams fairly easily, but stream 9, a was completely covered with 5 feet of snow.  Stream 10, just over the hill from stream 9, was partially open, but we still had to dig a section of it out from under a few feet of snow. We found a photosynthetic nitrogen-fixer - Nostoc pruniforme, in both streams, covered by snow, healthy and in abundance. Interesting indeed.

Setting up chambers on stream 10 with Dan Nelson.

            Now that we knew where to find our nitrogen fixers, our second day became our first sampling day. We started  with stream 10, and began by hunting down rocks to be used in our chambers. This was accomplished by digging small tunnels down to the stream bed and climbing down with headlamps to find representative samples, all while being careful not to collapse the snow tunnel or fall through accidentally. 

Hiking back after dusk; just enough light for a photo.

Working in these streams over the summer, we didn’t have to worry about our fingers getting too cold, but it became one of our primary concerns working in stream 10, where the water temperature was just above freezing.  In order to keep our hands from being exposed to the cold water and the cold air, we used extremely fashionable dish washing gloves.  While not extremely comfortable, the gloves did keep our hands dry and much warmer overall.  We finished our sampling at dusk, which meant our hike back was going to be a dark one.  The already slightly risky hike was now even more treacherous due to the fact that we could only see what was directly illuminated by our headlamps.   But, we always made it back safely and enjoyed the view of the brilliant night sky as we walked.  

Upon arrival back to the cabin, we started scraping the algae off of the rocks that we had collected earlier. I was given a new found appreciation for doing this type of work in a controlled lab environment that has an abundance of light and warmth.

A new challenge: rock scraping by headlamp.

The longest hike of the trip happened on our third day. We walked all the way to stream 11. This was also our longest sampling day. We collected samples from two different parts of stream 11 - some from under deep snow and some that were uncovered and exposed. This allowed us to stay relatively warm due to the constant hiking up and down a steep hill. The beginning of the day started off with mixed precipitation of rain and snow, but it cleared up a short time afterwards. It was definitely a long hike back with a backpack full of rocks, but it made sitting in front of the fire much more rewarding. Finally the raging winds had settled down and we were able to utilize both the fireplace and the heater. The cabin was raging hot by the end of the night, reaching temperatures of 7°C (~45°F).

Beautiful wide open stream 6!

        The fourth day we sampled stream 6. The hike there took the least amount of time; we were there well before sunrise. We had plenty of time to look around and find rocks for sampling. Stream 6 was by far the easiest stream to sample because it is completely open, flat, and warm. By this time, we were a well-oiled machine, but cabin fever was starting to set in and I was in desperate need of a shower. On the hike back, we had a moment of adrenaline.  We were walking across a previously solid patch of snow and the next moment, we found Jackie hanging by her elbows in a hole that just appeared under her feet. After pulling her out of the hole, we realized that we had been walking across a ravine without even knowing it. After much laughing as the adrenaline rush subsided, we found out that Jackie wasn't in any real danger - her feet were only few inches from the ground, but it was an exciting moment to be sure.

My masterpiece!

Our final day we took on stream 9. At the end of the week, it had warmed up by a few degrees and the snow had started to melt. Land that was completely covered by snow a few days ago was now uncovered. However, stream 9 was still covered by a solid 5 feet of snow. We began by digging holes down to the stream to collect rocks for sampling. Once we began our incubation, we had a few minutes to enjoy the snow.  I made a little snow castle using a pitcher to form snow blocks. Once our incubations were done, we began our final hike back to the cabin. Shortly after sunset, Sveinbjörn showed up to take us back into town. I cannot explain to you the odd feeling we all had riding in a vehicle for the first time in a week. It was an incredibly strange feeling to be moving without having to walk on your own legs, but the strangest feeling by far was being warm.

Jackie and I on our final hike back to the cabin.

Upon arrival back to civilization, we headed back to our apartment where we all rushed to take long hot showers and then feast on food that wasn’t warmed by water. It was an incredible week out in the cabin; an experience that I miss today. It was remarkable to live so simply and be completely dependent on each other. While we were out there, I did miss having a cell phone, heat, electricity, and running water, but I realized that I didn’t need them to survive - and how satisfying it was to live without these luxuries, even for just a week.  This experience continues to have a long lasting impact on my priorities and how I view my own resource use.  I continue to use the lights less and the stairs more!  I am more in tune with what I need, what's important, and what I can accomplish.